Li Changlin, Ambassador of China, writes about the Moroccan medinas

By H.E. Li Changlin, Ambassador of China

Morocco is a charming country, with stunning natural beauty and a rich cultural heritage, which has become a popular tourist destination in recent years. Morocco welcomed a record number of 17.4 million tourists last year and has been the leading tourist destination in Africa for many years. The medinas of Morocco, characterized by a blend of modernity and tradition, are among the most visited places by tourists. These medinas are not only symbols of the country’s history and culture but also the ideal place for travelers who want to discover the traditional lifestyle and architecture of the Moroccans. It is often said that you have not visited Morocco until you have toured its medinas.

The medina generally refers to the old Arab city, surrounded by walls, characterized by a maze of narrow streets, riads, and a dense concentration of craft workshops, making it a place full of history, anecdotes, and popularity. When entering the medina, one feels as though they are traveling from modern times to the Middle Ages, as if admiring a painting of a medieval Arab city. Inside the medina, the first thing that catches the eye is the imposing ochre-colored rock walls, which clearly demarcate the boundary between the old city and the new. It is known that the medinas of nine Moroccan cities, including those of Fez, Marrakech, and Rabat, have been declared UNESCO World Heritage sites, and the Moroccan government has regularly ensured the protection and maintenance of the medinas. However, this has never altered their size or structure, and they continue to maintain their vitality in the fusion of tradition and modernity. The medina has become an essential site for tourists.

Hamid, a professional guide, explained to me that the medina must have five elements: a mosque, a souk, a fountain, a hammam, and a bakery. The streets of the medina are winding, and it is difficult to leave without a local guide. The main means of transportation are mules, horses, donkeys, or carts. Both sides of the alleyways are filled with all kinds of stores, which may seem overcrowded but are actually divided into areas based on the type of goods, such as the spice area, the leather area, the silver area, the textile area, the lamp area, and so on. A wide variety of goods offers tourists many options for shopping.

The goods in different medinas are more or less the same, but some stand out among tourists. For example, blue ceramic mosaics and colorful leather products in Fez, which is also the largest medina; ceramics, leather and iron goods, jewelry, or carpets found in the Jamaa El-Fna Square in Marrakech; djellabas in the Habous district of Casablanca, not forgetting the jewelry boxes, scarves, and Thuya wood trays offered in the medina of Rabat. Most Chinese tourists are amazed by the artisanal works and often buy several to give as gifts to their friends and family. In the medina, you will also see Amazigh women dressed in traditional clothes, their heads adorned with colorful pompoms, selling vegetables, fruits, and herbs along the street, as well as cheese, and giving off the strong smell of goat. All of this creates a unique landscape in the medina.

I often accompany my Chinese friends to the medinas for shopping, but I paid little attention to the traditional architecture of the neighborhood. However, I was later invited by Mr. Abdelaziz DEROUICHE, President of the Rabat Prefectural Council, former Finance Minister Fathallah OUALALOU, and businessman Karakchou ABDELALI, to their homes in the medina, where I tasted authentic couscous and listened to stories about their houses, which sparked my deep interest in the architecture of the medina. According to my observations, traditional houses usually do not exceed three floors, have a discreet style, and very few windows, with doors being the almost sole link to the outside world. The doors are small but exquisite, often decorated with wooden carvings and floral painting.

Each door consists of two leaves: the outer leaf is larger, while the inner leaf is smaller. Only the inner leaf is opened for daily entries and exits, while the outer leaf is used for transporting bulky items or receiving guests. There are two doorbells: the small one is usually pressed first, and the large one is only pressed if there is no response. These traditional houses are typically built around a courtyard with an outdoor space, at the center of which is a marble or zellige-clad fountain. A variety of aromatic and ornamental plants can be found, surrounded by several rooms, with the terrace offering panoramic views of the medina.

Mr. ABDELALI told me that his house was 280 years old and that his parents had tried to sell it in their time, but they ultimately kept it at his insistence. He restored it over four long years without altering the original structure. He lives there during the week and in an apartment outside the medina on weekends. However, when important guests come, he ensures they are received in his house in the medina, of which he is very proud. Mr. DEROUICHE shared with me his childhood story when he would walk to school every day through the alleyways of the medina and, upon returning in the afternoon, would smell the food from other families, feel hungry, and rush home, which reminded me of the same scene when I was in school. Mr. OUALALOU, for his part, told me that the residential part of the medina is very calm and peaceful compared to the lively souks. He owns a small house that serves as his study and from which he draws much of his inspiration for books such as China and Us and China and the Arab-African Space.

Additionally, what caught my attention the most were the signs with the word “Riad” or “Dar” that are everywhere in the medina. These are old houses transformed into guesthouses, which can be booked through the contact details on the signs. These accommodations feature Moroccan décor but also modern comfort and even a pool. Despite their slightly high prices, these places have a high occupancy rate and are particularly appreciated by European and American tourists, who can stroll through the neighborhood and immerse themselves in local life. Thanks to the visa exemption for Chinese citizens, more and more Chinese tourists are visiting Morocco, and the medina remains a must-visit place. In 2018, a film crew from China Central Television’s Homeland Dreamland, Belt and Road traveled to Morocco to produce a seven-episode documentary (with English subtitles) about the country, two of which were dedicated to the medinas of Casablanca and Fez. I often share the documentary with my Moroccan friends, who are very grateful for China’s efforts to promote their country and eagerly look forward to Chinese visitors for the 2030 World Cup.

In early February 2024, the Chinese Cultural Center in Rabat, in collaboration with the municipality, organized the “Chinese New Year Carnival” in the medina of Rabat, in front of the famous Oudayas, with the support of artists from Shaanxi and Sichuan. A large stage was set up in the square at the center of the medina, where Chinese and Moroccan artists performed together, causing constant applause from the audience. Some of my friends still talk to me about this event today.

Furthermore, according to recent statistics, in 2024, the number of Chinese tourists in Morocco experienced a strong recovery, reaching over 100,000 (180,000 in 2019). The TV channel 2M highlighted that Moroccan tourism will have an “unprecedented Chinese moment.” On the eve of the Chinese New Year, Shanghai Eastern Airlines launched a new air route Shanghai–Casablanca (via Marseille), and Royal Air Maroc resumed the Casablanca–Beijing route, greatly improving air transport between China and Morocco, and people-to-people exchanges between both countries will reach a higher level. During the Spring Festival, both flights registered a high occupancy rate, and the “just go” trip became a reality. More Chinese tourists arrived in Morocco compared to previous years, and I found many of them at major attractions in Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech, and Chefchaouen. With this, I am convinced that in the coming years, Sino-Moroccan cooperation in various fields will enter a new era, with a higher level, broader scope, and more fruitful results.